Finewinetourist - Wine route around Lake Balaton

Wine route around Lake Balaton - Day 1 (57 km)

Take the path less trodden!

The Balaton wine route is one of our most colorful and beautiful wine regions. There are lots of programs, opportunities for relaxation, and many wineries that await us close to its shores with numerous lodging options. There is a bike path that goes all around: around 60% is an actual bike path and the remaining 40% is low-traffic roads or sidewalks. The route around the lake is 200km if we don't take any detours. We made it in 220 kilometers and traveled this distance in three days. (Last year we made it around the lake in two days, but it was a bit strenuous and there wasn't much time for wine tasting.) We departed from Balatonlelle (by the way, most of the wineries are in south Balaton, thanks to the co-operative BB breaking-up and selling off its bits and pieces). It'd be worth spending a few days here. ...

Perhaps the most beautiful panaorama is at the southern shore of Lake Balaton at the Majthényi Présház. The winery at the top of Kishegy belongs to Konyári winery found just a few hundred meters downhill. Of course, they sell their own wine here under the names of Konyári and Ikon. At the bottom of Kishegy is Garamvári Szőlőbirtok St. Donátus Pincészet and a few hundred meters over is Caesar Cellars and Museum. Travelling west on our way around Lake Balton, our fist stop was at Balatonkeresztúr, at Balla Winery. This is about 35 kilometers from Balatonlelle, the road totally flat, and an easy ride. To get to the winery, when you arrive in Keresztúr, turn left towards the church then, travelling west on the bike path paralell to road 7, take another left at the cemetary. The picturesque countryside opens up before us, and amongst the green hills and beautifully cultivated vineyardsr, you will findBalla Winery. A father and his two sons run the winery. Our host was one of the sons, András Balla. We went down to the cellar and tasted all his newest wines. Great whites, among them a Green Vertilini, one a late harvest, and red wines with a definitive acid spine. One of its more interesting wines was a reductive Merlot that was made specifically for distribution in its pubs; fresh, almost crispy, an easily drinkable summer wine. We had a fantastic meal of homemade colddcuts and rinsed it down with a 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. All in all, it can be said that the winery makes easy, summer wines with a strong acid spine and conentrated fruit. It was definatlely worth the trip!

And yes, there are times when it is important to take the path less trodden. Going uphill from the winery we were awaited by a gorgeous vista. We pedaled along the mountain ridge amoungst the grape vines all the way to Balatonberény and from there continued on the bike path. From here the road is still flat, no incline, following a clearly marked bike path across forest and lake shore. The western shores are wild, not developed like it is in the south with summer homes, just nature and us tourists. After about 15 kilometers we already arrived at the center of Keszthely. From here we veered off the path and headed north.

Our destination was the home of the Cserszegi Fűszeres, Cserszegtomaj. Here we began to paddle a little uphill, but its a good idea to start getting used to it because northern Balaton will have a few surprises for you in store in this department. Here we stayed at a very relaxing little wellness pension, just a few kilometers north from Keszthely, right next to Hévíz, at the Andrea Wellness Panzió. It is really easy to find. From afar you will be able to spot the wood lookout tower located right next to the pension. It has an outdoor pool, indoor jacuzzi, and sauna. And you don't have to go far to appease your appetite after a long day's ride. Right next door is the Napraforgó restaurant where you can enjoy a great, satisfying dinner. At the restaurant they have Németh Borh wines on their wine list, located just a few kilometers away, one or the largest wineries in that region. Though we were expected there the following morning at nine, we coundn't resist trying their wines and ordered a couple of glasses. The pension also has wine connections, one of its owners is a proud, active member of the Baltoni Borbarát Hölgyek Egyesület (Balaton wine group's women's chapter)!